Note: This is a camino of gratitude for me. Each day, I choose something I am grateful for in my life and think and journal about it throughout the day. I will share an excerpt from my journal entries at the end of each day's post.
Day 12: San Vicente to Serdio 5 miles
|San Vicente in the distance (on the left side), next to where the river meets the sea.|
The next morning I did not have to leave the hotel until noon. (Usually we have to be out of the albergues by 8:00 or 8:30.) Again, I thought about how lucky I was to have shelter and decided to dedicate this day as well to being grateful for the shelter I found last night.
|October is here and many, many calabazas are found in home gardens.|
|We pilgrims are pleased to see the yellow arrows wherever we can find them.|
And after only 7.7 kilometers, I came to this lovely albergue in Serdio.
|The hospitera here loved my trensas (braids, which I mostly wear all the time now). See that weeping willow? Some young peregrinos climbed it in the evening and were singing!|
After leaving my pack at the albergue I walked back down the road to eat at the local taberna. I did not recognize anything on the menu, but I ordered the fabada with a questioning look at the tavern owner. He kissed his fingers so I trusted him. And it turned out to be beans cooked with smoked salt pork—much like our family has created it for generations--except they add chorizo and blood sausage. It was still a taste of home…
|Fabada (in front) followed by steak fillet and potatoes and all the wine I could drink|
from that bottle. Add postre (dessert) after that and you have a recipe for siesta!
The menu del dia, which is a common practice here and which I had also encountered in Peru, is a set menu, sometimes with lots of choices, sometimes with only one or two. You get a first (primero) and second (secundo) course, wine, and dessert for a set price—here it is between 9 and 14 euros. This one was 10 euros and included the bottle of wine! I am a very cheap drunk so I only had 2 glasses. But with the fabada, the steak filet and potatoes, cold lemon custard, bread, and wine, I had only one choice—return to the albergue for a siesta!
I would later learn that Asturias is famous for its fabada and I was able to try it several more times, but none of the others measured up to this one in the little village of Serdio on a sleepy Sunday afternoon.
|The small things I see along my camino slow me down quite a bit, but it is worthwhile |
to stop and enjoy them, even if takes me two months to get to Santiago!
|Black cows enjoying lunch at a cafe with a view of the peregrina passing by.|
|Welcome to Columbres. My albergue for two nights is the blue building in the distance.|
A funny thing about my two-day stay in Columbres. On my first night there were four other people in the six-bed room. All could speak English (a rare experience lately—I am often the only native English speaker in a room). We had some lovely chats. The next night, my roommates were three Spanish men who came in very late stinking of beer accompanied by their dog who, otherwise well-behaved, was led with a large chain that clanked every time he moved during the night. On top of that, one man had about the most annoying snore I have ever heard. I got up and got out early!
I have now walked 122 miles to the Compostela de Santiago